Hampshire and Isle of Wight Folk Tales Read online

  HAMPSHIRE

  AND

  ISLE OF WIGHT

  FOLK

  TALES

  HAMPSHIRE

  AND

  ISLE OF WIGHT

  FOLK

  TALES

  MICHAEL O’ LEARY

  First published in 2011

  The History Press

  The Mill, Brimscombe Port

  Stroud, Gloucestershire, GL5 2QG

  www.thehistorypress.co.uk

  This ebook edition first published in 2011

  All rights reserved

  © Michael O'Leary, 2011

  The right of Michael O'Leary, to be identified as the Author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyrights, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

  This ebook is copyright material and must not be copied, reproduced, transferred, distributed, leased, licensed or publicly performed or used in any way except as specifically permitted in writing by the publishers, as allowed under the terms and conditions under which it was purchased or as strictly permitted by applicable copyright law. Any unauthorised distribution or use of this text may be a direct infringement of the author’s and publisher’s rights, and those responsible may be liable in law accordingly.

  EPUB ISBN 978 0 7524 7754 1

  MOBI ISBN 978 0 7524 7753 4

  Original typesetting by The History Press

  CONTENTS

  Acknowledgements

  Map

  Introduction

  One Ytene: The Forest

  The Blood-Red King of Canterton Glen

  The White Stag

  The Bisterne Dragon

  Jump to Glory Jane

  Two Southampton

  King Cnut

  The Legend of Sir Bevois

  The Buried Shirt

  Three Dystopia – betwixt Southampton and Portsmouth

  The Green Lady of Hedge End

  Kate Hunt, the Witch of Curdridge

  A Phantom of Combustion

  Three Stone Copse

  Short Road

  Tales of Sandy Lane

  The Waltham Blacks

  Four Portsmouth

  Spicer’s Skull

  A Portsmouth Welcome

  Riots and the Gallows

  The Corking Up of Jack the Painter

  Commander Crabb

  Five The Meon Valley

  Sixpenny Moses and Tanglefoot Toop

  St Wilfrid

  Betty Mundy’s Bottom

  The Church with no Name

  Old Winchester Hill

  Six Winchester

  Sleepers Hill

  Orfeo and the King under Twyford Down

  Tales of St Swithun

  Straightforward Work

  Seven The Test Valley

  Ethelfleda of Rum’s Eg

  Deadman’s Plack

  The Wherwell Cockatrice

  The Rarey Bird

  The Detectorist’s Story

  Eight The Far North

  Chute’s Broadway

  Combe Gibbet

  The Devil’s Highway

  Onion and the Imp

  Tadley God Help Us

  The Man in the Moon and the Broomsquire

  Cricket, Single-Stick Wrestling and Bare-Knuckle Boxing

  A Highwayman’s Heath

  The Treasure of the Basingstoke Canal

  The Blackwaterbeat

  Nine The Isle of Wight

  Cork Heads

  How the Island got its Name

  The Story of St Arwald

  Stories of St Boniface

  The Mysterious Hermit of the Crystal Well

  The Giant of Blackgang Chine

  The Pied Piper of Francheville

  The Building of Godshill Church

  The Phantom Party

  The King’s Head

  Michael Morey’s Hump

  Tales of Benjamin Snuddon

  The Queen of Chantilly

  Peace, Love and Latrines

  Postscript

  Bibliography

  ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

  Thanks are due to Roy, for sharing stories and conversation over many years; to Cathy, who put up with me for a very long time, during which we did a lot of exploring of Hampshire and the Island in the old camper van, accompanied by our children; to Debbie, for encouraging me to become a professional storyteller all that time ago; to Nadia, for assisting me with my search for the dragon; to Hallam Mills for being so helpful, and sharing information about the dragon; to John for all the patient computer assistance; to cousin David for the photo; and to Christine Reeves of the Blackwater Countryside Partnership, for suggesting information about north-east Hampshire.

  I’d also like to thank all of the people with whom I’ve swapped bits and pieces of story. They might be friends and workmates, or they might be passers-by who I met whilst leaning on a bar, raconteuring in a mess-hut, chatting in staff rooms, wandering down lanes and footpaths, pedalling through the forest, or sitting outside burger vans in lay-bys!

  O’Leary’s rough map of Hampshire, 2011

  Showing locations of folk tales.

  KEY TO MAP

  Chapter 1

  1. Canterton Glen

  2. Burley

  3. Lower Bisterne Farm

  4. Peterson’s Tower, Sway

  Chapter 2

  Southampton

  Chapter 3

  5. Hedge End

  6. Curdridge

  7. Bursledon

  8. Titchfield

  9. Sandy Lane, Shedfield

  10. Waltham Chase

  Chapter 4

  Portsmouth

  Chapter 5

  11. Wickham

  12. Corhampton

  13. Betty Mundy’s Bottom

  14. Old Winchester Hill

  Chapter 6

  Winchester

  Chapter 7

  15. Rum’s Eg

  16. Deadman’s Plack

  17. Wherwell

  18. Andover

  Chapter 8

  19. Chute’s Broadway

  20. Combe Gibbet

  21. Calleva Atrebatum

  22. Tadley

  Chapter 9

  23. Bonchurch

  24. St Lawrence

  25. Blackgang Chine

  26. Francheville/Newtown

  27. Godshill

  28. Knighton Gorges

  29. Carisbrooke

  30. Michael Morey’s Hump

  31. Niton

  32. St Helens

  INTRODUCTION

  One winter’s evening in the 1980s, I wandered across Northam Road – a main road leading out of Southampton – for a pint in the Prince of Wales. It was a wet, dark, miserable evening and the orange, sodium street lights glowed dully as the drizzle drifted inland from Southampton Water and the Solent beyond.

  I leaned on the bar next to Reg Gulley and he told me the following story, which he claimed was true…

  On a night like this, a young girl was seen trying to hitch a lift on Northam Bridge. A couple – who wouldn’t want to be called elderly, but who were certainly of mature years – saw her from their car. They didn’t really hold with picking up hitchhikers, but she looked so young and wet and miserable – and if they didn’t pick her up, who might?

  So they stopped.

  Sitting shivering in the back seat of the car, the girl told the couple that she’d been on a shopping trip to town and she’d lost her purse, so she didn’t have the bus fare home. Home was in Thornhill, an area of Southampton not far from the couple’s house.

  ‘Oh well, we’ll take you home, dear,’ they told her.

  They stopped just down the road from her house, and offere
d to walk her to the door.

  ‘No, it’s fine,’ she said, ‘Thank you for the lift.’

  The couple drove home, but, when they got there, they found the girl’s coat on the back seat of the car, all wet with the rain. Since they knew where she lived, they decided to return the coat the next morning. When they knocked on the door, a middle-aged man answered.

  ‘We’ve got your daughter’s coat. She left it in our car when we gave her a lift home.’

  ‘Are you sick?’ shouted the man. His wife appeared behind him.

  ‘People like you should be put away!’ she screamed at them.

  Finally, the unfortunate couple managed to persuade the girl’s parents that they were serious – and then they were told a story: a year ago, the girl had lost her purse whilst on a shopping trip to town, so she had decided to hitchhike home. On Northam Bridge, she had been hit by a car and was killed.

  Her parents took the incredulous couple to St Mary Extra Cemetery to show them their daughter’s grave – and what should they see when they walked towards the grave? There, draped over the headstone, was her coat.

  That was the first time I had heard that story. Later, I came to realise that it was a generic urban legend, set in different locations all over the world. Indeed, in 1981, before I’d heard the story, an American academic, Jan Harold Brunvand, wrote a book called The Vanishing Hitchhiker: American Urban Legends and Their Meanings. But to me, the legend was always located at Northam Bridge – well, Reg Gulley told it to me, and he heard it from so and so, who heard it from so and so – and so it must be true, mustn’t it?

  But the location was so appropriate – I later heard that Wendy Boase, in her book The Folklore of Hampshire and the Isle of Wight, had already come across a version of the story, set on Northam Bridge, and whenever I heard versions of the story in Southampton, it was always set on, or by, Northam Bridge.

  Northam, the inner city area of Southampton, where I live, is hardly the most prepossessing place in Hampshire, and Northam Road isn’t at all remarkable. Yet some places have a feeling to them. The bridge crosses the river to Bitterne Manor, which was once a Roman settlement called Clavsentvm, and there are stories of lines of Roman soldiers crossing the road here, and ghostly figures guarding the way through old Clavsentvm.

  It’s easy to imagine, before there ever was a bridge, a mysterious traveller waiting for the ferry, and that traveller disappearing, and the boatman finding himself alone with the sound of the river and the birds flying inland from the sea. And sometimes I think I hear the sound of paddles – as if the first Belgae invaders are paddling up the lazy river, between the wooded hills. It’s a very singular place – and legends attach themselves to singular places.

  Invariably, the stories I hear are not told by people who call themselves storytellers, or researchers, or folklorists. The stories do not always look back to some bucolic past – often they have changed and adapted. I might hear a story from the bloke with the hi-viz jacket, who I meet at the burger van next to the exit road to Odiham – a story about a haunted stretch of road; I might hear a story from that beautifully noisy woman at the farmers’ market – a story of an isolated copse which no one wants to enter; I might hear a story from a teaching assistant in a school – a story she insists belongs only to the locality she loves. Hampshire never had a William Bottrell, the folklorist who systematically collected stories in Cornwall. This is a blessing and a curse – so many stories must have been lost, but stories haven’t become quaint collectors’ items either; they have been free to evolve.

  I work as a professional storyteller – and the privilege of this is that as soon as people find out, they tell me stories; indeed, I hardly dare mention my strange job to taxi drivers! These stories therefore amass within my poor benighted brain, and sometimes it’s hard to remember who my original source was. I became a professional storyteller in 1995 – but that, of course, wasn’t when I first started absorbing stories. As a greenkeeper near the Meon Valley I heard stories, as a council gardener in Southampton I heard stories, as a primary school teacher I heard stories. Often these tales attached themselves to a place; Hampshire comes alive to me through this buzz of stories and because of those special, ‘singular’ places – some of them beautiful, some most definitely not.

  Reading stories is a strange thing. I am a storyteller, and so am used to hearing those words, rather than seeing them in print. The concept of silent reading is, historically, a recent one; for instance, the King James Bible was written to be read aloud, which makes it so different from modern translations. In some cases in this book, I have attempted to write a story as it is spoken – though this is difficult, because spoken stories change according to the mood of the listeners, the mood of the storyteller, the state of the weather, and the place where the story is being told! Other tales are written more discursively.

  If I have an aim, other than enjoying myself and hoping that others can do so too, it is to encourage the reader to get out there and explore Hampshire and the Isle of Wight. To make this easier, the chapters are ordered geographically; we start in the New Forest and then head eastwards to Portsmouth, up to the Meon Valley and west to Romsey, then along the Test Valley up to the far north of Hampshire – a sort of letter S. Then it’s down to the Isle of Wight, underlining our letter S!

  I do think that the best way to find stories is to get out there – to put on the boots and explore; to meet and talk to people; to listen, not just to whole stories, but to all those fragments that people mention in passing. Those stories are not just to be found in the conventionally picturesque areas either – they are also to be found in the cities, and in that strange semi-rural, semi-urban hinterland of which Hampshire has more than its fair share. Here then, are some of those stories.

  One

  YTENE: THE FOREST

  The first thing to say about the New Forest is that it is old; indeed it is ancient. The oak and beech woodland is typical of how much of England’s landscape would have been in pre-medieval times – ‘climax woodland’, the mature stage of natural forest succession. However, an ancient meaning of the word ‘forest’ is open hunting ground, not just woodland, and this very much applies to the New Forest because it contains great stretches of heathland and bogland – some of which, like Cranes Moor, are the same today as they would have been after the last glaciation. This is highly unusual in the intensely managed landscape of England.

  Much of the Forest (as the New Forest is simply known in the county) looks quite unlike the rest of Hampshire. In the 1940s, Brian Vesey-Fitzgerald wrote of ‘the magnificent view over Vales Moor and Crow Hill, a view that one would expect to find in Yorkshire or Devonshire but not in Hampshire’, and this holds true today.

  Now that landscape has become a saleable commodity, it would cost an absolute fortune to buy as much as a shed in the Forest, but the thing that has made the Forest such a place for stories is its marginality, its thin soil and lack of agricultural fertility; its wildness. These are the qualities that made it a refuge and lurking place for people on the margins: outcasts, dissenters, gypsies, vagabonds – those without great means and money.

  Then there are the people who seem to have been in the Forest forever – the people who may have resented the Saxons and Danes as much as they resented the Normans. And it was with the Normans that the name ‘New Forest’ arrived. The old name for the Forest was ‘Ytene’, and it only took on the rather banal name ‘New Forest’ because it was William the Conqueror’s new forest, where, as William of Gloucester put it: ‘Gane of hondes he loved y nou, and of wilde beste. And his forest and hys wodes, and most ye nywe forest.’

  William made the Forest Crown property, and imposed forest law. Forest law operated outside common law and protected the ‘vert’ (the vegetation of the Forest) and the game there: the boar, the hare, the coney, the pheasant, the partridge, the wolf, the fox, the marten, the roe deer – but, most of all, the red deer. It was due to this royal ownership that the Forest
survived.

  Stories have developed through the years, suggesting that William cleared the Forest of its inhabitants, destroyed villages and churches, and drove the people from their land – but there is no archaeological evidence to support this. The lack of agricultural fertility indicates that there wouldn’t have been a large farming population anyway. But still, the laws were harsh; and hungry people banned from hunting deer – what resentment must that have stirred up? And how would stories from different times within the Forest have merged, and affected each other? Well, this brings us to the Rufus.

  THE BLOOD-RED KING OF CANTERTON GLEN

  William the Conqueror, when he lay dying, bequeathed his crown to his second living son, William Rufus – William the Red. Stories present him as a villainous ruler – this may be true, or may be partly due to propaganda, but, as no ruler at this time was much of a charmer, he was perhaps no worse than the others. Either way, it was in the Forest that William Rufus met his end, and a tangle of stories connect with this.

  Sound is different in the New Forest woodland; it echoes. The bowmen would have known how to wait quietly amidst the trees. Then the peace would have been shattered as a stag bounded towards them, driven before a hullabaloo of shouts, whoops and galloping horses. One day, the stocky figure of William Rufus – easily recognised because of his red hair and beard, his even redder face, and those strange different-coloured eyes – stepped into the light and fired an arrow, which glanced off the stag as it leaped away. The Rufus shaded his eyes and watched it disappear into the dapple of greens and browns and shadows. Then another deer broke cover and Sir Walter Tyrell loosed off an arrow. It lodged in the king’s breast; he snatched at it with his hand, but it broke off and he fell dead. They left him there. No carrying the body home amidst great mourning; no lying in state.

  Tyrell fled to Normandy – or maybe he was just bringing the tidings to Normandy. He stopped to wash his hands in Ocknell Pond, and then got a blacksmith to shoe his horse backwards to confuse anyone who might be pursuing him. In stories, people being pursued often shoe their horses backwards, and sometimes the Devil himself swivels his hooves the other way – but maybe Sir Walter wasn’t being pursued.